Route: St Cuthbert’s Church Lorton to St James’ Church Buttermere
Area: Western Lake District
Date of walk: 19th April 2018
Walkers: Andrew and Gilly
Distance: 7.2 miles
Ascent: 1,200 feet
Weather: Mostly sunny, clouding over near the end
Yesterday’s walk reminded us that linear walks are somehow more satisfying than circular ones, involving a journey to a destination. The planning is a little more complicated though, and consideration needs to be given as to how to get back to the start. For today’s walk we left one car at Buttermere and drove in the other to the start point – St Cuthbert’s Church on the edge of High Lorton. A ‘pilgrimage’ to its sister church, St James’ in Buttermere would make for a very pleasing walk
It was a glorious morning as we parked at St Cuthbert’s and followed a path across the fields into High Lorton. Just beyond the village hall we crossed the bridge over Whit Beck and after following the lane for a short distance turned off along a footpath to Scales. We continued climbing up an untidy path by a farm before finally turning south in the direction of Buttermere. The path continues at mid-level along Lorton Vale, giving glorious views across the surrounding countryside and to the lakeland fells ahead (the walk should be started from Lorton rather than Buttermere in order to keep the most dramatic scenery ahead). The views from High Swinside in particular are sublime and sum up all that is best about sweet Lorton Vale
We carried on along the elevated path and eventually reached Lanthwaite Green and the foot of Crummock Water, but continued along the higher level path in order to stay above the road. On reaching Rannerdale we dithered for a while, not being able to decide between continuing up Rannerdale, or walking around the foot of Rannerdale Knotts, which involves less climbing. In the end we opted for the latter, mindful of the wonderful views ahead once the short climb over the big toe of Rannerdale Knotts has been accomplished. We passed by two walkers here, the only other people we’d encounter on the journey until our arrival in Buttermere
We descended to Wood House and followed the road into Buttermere (the road section can be avoided by taking a slightly longer route through Great Wood). We then visited St James’ Church to admire the Wainwright memorial plaque and the view through the window to Haystacks, Wainwright’s favourite fell – a fitting end to a superb walk
Click on the icon below for the route map (subscribers to OS Maps can view detailed maps of the route, visualise it in aerial 3D, and download the GPX file. Non-subscribers will see a base map)
Scroll down – or click on any photo to enlarge it and you can then view as a slideshow
Early morning light on this red squirrel before we set off on today's walk...
A short while later, the start of the walk - St Cuthbert's Church Lorton
Just beyond the church we follow this path into High Lorton
Looking across Lorton Park
High Lorton
'The big house' - Lorton Park
Cottages in High Lorton, with Whiteside towering above them
'There is a Yew-tree, pride of Lorton Vale...' - the tree immortalised by Wordsworth is a shadow of its former self, having been battered by gales over the years - but it's still there, standing proud
The path to Scales
The lovely lonning leading to High Swinside...
Beyond High Swinside, a wonderful view over Lorton Vale towards Mellbreak and the Loweswater Fells
Lorton Dodd and Whiteside on the left
Before we cross Hope Beck, a view up to Hopegill Head
Low Fell at the far side of the vale
The only other walkers we'd seen so far
Beyond Miller Place
We continue beside the dry stone wall
Gavel Fell and Carling Knott
Lanthwaite Hill and Mellbreak
Looking across to Mellbreak
A view back to Low Fell and Fellbarrow
Crummock Water comes into view...
We cross the footbridge over Liza Beck
Lanthwaite Green and Mellbreak
We pass by a lone holly tree
Rannerdale Knotts ahead
Looking back towards Loweswater
Our route will take us over the big toe of Rannerdale Knotts ahead
Rannerdale Knotts looms ever larger...
It's tempting to carry on up the valley, and we debated the pros and cons, but in the end decided to turn right at the foot of the fell
Bonnie below Whiteless Pike
We enter the protected Rannerdale bluebell area - this will be a spectacular sea of blue in a month's time
We cross the footbridge over Squat Beck
Heading towards Hause Point
After a short 50 yard road section, we turn off here to climb above Hause Point
Over the hause, the wonderful view of Wood House, surely one of the most photogenic houses in the Lake District - a glimpse of Buttermere beyond Crummock Water
We descended to the Buttermere road - this is a view back along the road
Buttermere...
...and our destination - St James' Church
The Wainwright memorial tablet, with Haystacks in the background. A perfect way to end a walk which - for me at least - could be described as a pilgrimage
