Route: San Quirico d’Orcia to Bagno Vignoni
Area: Italy, Tuscany
Date of walk: 5th October 2019
Walkers: Andrew and Gilly
Distance: 5.0 miles
Ascent: 600 feet
Weather: Cloudy at first, gradually clearing, with good light at times
We started today’s walk in the same place as yesterday’s – the historic old town of San Quirico in the Crete and Val d’Orcia region of Tuscany. As this was a linear walk, we’d checked in advance that we would arrive in our destination in plenty of time to catch the local bus back to the start
After another enjoyable stroll around San Quirico we left the old town walls, passing by the bust of Tazio Nuvolair, a famous Italian racing driver. We headed west initially, following a dirt track through olive groves. After a while our direction of travel changed and we turned south, following a succession of tracks and paths, mostly through rural farmland where there were olive groves and vineyards in abundance
Every so often huge views of the rolling Tuscan landscape opened up, adding to the enjoyment of the walk, which was easy throughout. The route to our destination was well waymarked and there were no navigation issues. We passed a few other walkers, but most of the time we had the paths to ourselves
All too soon we arrived at Bagno Vignoni. This village has a unique attraction – in traditional Italian towns and villages there is a main square in the centre. In Bagno Vignoni there is a pool 49 metres long and 29 wide, from the bottom of which bubble up a number of hot springs. The therapeutic qualities of the waters became renowned and attracted numerous pilgrims travelling the Via Francigena on their way to Rome, one of the main destinations for the Christian pilgrimages. It’s not possible to enter the central pool, but it is possible to enjoy a free warm bath in the springs at the adjacent Parco dei Mulini
This was a superb end to an unforgettable walk, and from here we caught the local bus back to the start
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Before the start of the walk I made another dawn visit to Podere Belvedere, hoping for some mist. This didn't materialise today (but would tomorrow)
The start of the walk from San Quirico d'Orcia to Bagno Vignoni, and before we set off we wander around the old streets...
The Collegiata Church, originally an 8th century rural church and then rebuilt and extended over the years
The ancient well beside the Collegiata
We walk past the church...
A pair of ancient stone lions guard the entrance
San Francesco Church in the heart of the town
The Leonini Gardens
We leave San Quirico to start the walk to Bagno Vignoni
We pass by the bust of Tazio Nuvolari, a famous Italian racing driver
We head into open countryside beneath the arch of the Ponti della Mille Miglia, and follow a 'strada bianca' country lane
One of the many olive groves which we passed along the way...
Looking back to San Quirico d'Orcia
We pass by a handsome villa
Looking back to San Quirico
San Quirico again, seen from the crest of a hill
Vineyards, and Pienza in the far distance
We pass by Podere Schivanoia, which enjoys wonderful views over Val d'Orcia
The path takes us through the extensive Sante Marie di Vignoni vineyard...
Wonderful views over the rolling fields, looking towards Pienza...
Our destination, Bagno Vignoni, is just around the corner - ahead of us is Rocca d'Orcia and its castle
We arrive in Bagno Vignoni and its historic open air baths (bathing is not permitted now, but there is a pool in the adjacent park which can be accessed free of charge)
The thermal springs which feed the pool can be seen bubbling up to the surface
A wedding is taking place in the arched gallery
Time to feed the inner walker - salute!
Le Terme restaurant and its reflections in the spa...
The wedding ceremony ends and I take a final photo of the spa from the arched gallery
Just outside the small village lies Parco dei Mulini (park of the mills), which has wonderful views over the Val d'Orcia...
Hot water from the baths in the village gushes down a channel in the rocks into the River Orcia below
The end of a wonderful walk, and from the village we catch the bus back to San Quirico
Back in San Quirico, the Collegiata again
There's some good light around, and I take a few roadside photos of Val d'Orcia on the way back to our hotel
Chapel Vitaleta, which we'd passed by on yesterday's walk
Late afternoon sun showing the graceful curves of the rolling fields...
The sun sets behind Palazzo Massaini at the end of a wonderful day in the Val d'Orcia
